What's all that white stuff on the shore?
Yan and I are squished against the small window in the plane. It's our first time to Japan and we are as excited as kids and are blessed with clear blue skies for our decent over the ocean into the island of Hokkaido. The view is limited- there is the airplane wing and a girl who actually has the window seat. We are basically in her lap when she kindly offers to swap seats with us.
I have no experience in cold climates but Yan was born skiing in the mountains and even he confused to see this "white stuff" on the beach. As we are landing we realize - it's fucking snow! Right down to the oceans edge! Every inch of land is covered in snow! On the bus into Sapporo we see the white road and the road side piled up with snow 3m high. The roofs of the houses are heavy with meters of snow stacked and if not, it's because that pile has fallen and is accumulating in another pile surrounding the house. Everyday they have to dig their door and car out. Any vacant patch of land becomes a place for trucks to dump loads of snow, creating endless mountains. You get my point, there's a lot of snow. And every single day we were here it snowed... Even if the sun was shining it's still snowing. It's easy to understand why Japan is called Japow by snowboarders and skiers because the powder is unavoidable - probably even super annoying to those "normal people" trying to go about their day but having to shovel their way around. But we came here to snowboard so for us this is paradise.
I think the powdery snow is the closest thing you can get to being in a cloud. It's so soft, gently and soundlessly falling, so light and fluffy. If it wasn't so cold you could frolic in it all day- rolling, diving, jumping, even swimming through. It's mind-blowing to consider that each snowflake is unique like a human fingerprint. I don't know if that's possible but it's something I heard. The snowflakes pile up so high, over such a vast area and continuously falling. So light they take flight in the wind. So magical they sparkle like glitter in the light rays.
The forest makes no sound. There is no birds chirping, no animals talking, not even any bugs buzzing. There are no leaves of the trees to rustle in the wind. The only noise is the panting of your own breath or the shuffling of your own clothes in movement. Even when riding, the board on the powder is completely silent as it is effortless. I've never heard such silence. Not even a ringing in my own ears as the soft snow foam dampens all sound waves
Public spaces are like a library in Japan. "Do not disturb" is a collectively held attitude. Phones are on silent and people are texting rather than speaking out loud while standing in orderly ques. Eye contact is avoided unless a direct exchange is taking place. Without the conversation, the cloppering of shoes on the path makes apparent the volume of people casually marching but always keeping left. No one challenges the red man for crossing.
Only at night when the bars open do the people start to rumble. No matter how long you were stuck on the cold mountain a Raman will sort out your body temperature .
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